воскресенье, 23 сентября 2012 г.

"From Santa Claus to Chyskhaanu": Baikal Amazon and Elder White


New expedition from Great Ustyug in Oymyakon, the Pole of Cold, "From Santa Claus to Chyskhaanu" continues. Now our Subaru already reached Buryatia.
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That's how many times there have been on this descent to Lake Baikal, are countless. Still, before nyrnesh this small streamers, stop, get out of the car and obaldeesh joy. Well, there is such a beauty ... This is probably one of the most beautiful places on earth. However, in Buryatia we have another the same, where the "capture the spirit of a proud beauty." And while eyeing local resources - primarily to cisco. It is sold here from time immemorial in two uncomplicated smoked versions: hot and cold. Alas, the fish went up, in the summer, we bought it for £ 45., And now one thing is already 60.
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On the way to Ulan-Ude find traces of the new building - a road that winds through repeating the shoreline of Lake Baikal, and then goes right into the valley of the Selenga, straighten and now are trying to expand. Commendable. Perhaps this is due to the development of gambling area in Goryachinskii, on the banks of the Holy Sea. We wish Baikal other tourists, of course, but thanks for this. In Ulan-Ude arrive late at night. Still, our friends from the clubs "Baikal Amazon" and "Commonwealth Om" We waited. Crazy girls - and they ride on the ice of Lake Baikal, always dangle in their cars in Mongolia and China ... Upon learning that we were driving from Santa Claus to Chyskhaanu, they decided to introduce us to yet another mythical character - White elders.
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Elder White - this is not Santa Claus ... That is, it is Santa Claus, but not Christmas. Evenki, who inhabited the territory of present Buryatia even in ancient times, celebrated the New Year in the summer, at the time of calving cattle. New Year - new life. A White Old Man Winter is personified as the time of year. But anyway, the meeting and the presentation of his credentials as Hadaka - silk scarf printed with mantras - happened. Here is a mixture of Buddhist and pagan traditions. We add that the whole ceremony takes place against the background of a burning fire, to pour incense - that shamanism is drawn.
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And one more familiar to our Buryat simply can not mention - in the village tarbagan, central Transbaikal Old Believer community living priest, Father Sergius. This man has collected an amazing collection of local lore, which has it all - from the bones of prehistoric animals to wooden prototypes of modern mixers Old Believers huts. Father Sergey invited us to ride on the mountain Yazev, known popularly as Pohmelushka. The name does not correspond to the point. Yazev, or Great Lighthouse - one of the highest points in the valley of the Selenga. View from the space it opens simply. Without any of the achievement of human civilization as kakih-nibud mine, CHP or PPM does not "break the picture" - this kind of watched the Huns, brazenly moving to the west, is that plain and saw a valley of Genghis Khan, the transfer here Selenga, namely this move entail eternity exile Avvakum.
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And this grand nature, multiplied by the strong historical energy, generates an incredible feeling of touch with the present. Will pass by - do not drive through. By the way, our Subaru, despite the absence of the reduction gearing, coped with the ascent with no problems and took us to the very top Yazev. Off-road qualities of our crossovers we are pleased with all the more.
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Well, we head towards the Chita.

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