"From Santa Claus to Chyskhaanu»: Subaru got to Yakutia

Road to Petrovsk-Zabaikalsky meets us fantastic scenery and relatively fit asphalt, but it's hard to escape the thought that these places are connected with one of the most dramatic chapters in the history of our country. In the 30 years of the nineteenth century there were serving hard labor, the Decembrists, and here their husbands arrived ten women.

We know about them from the course of high school, but I never understood the tragedy of these individual destinies, so long until we were here. 71 people, 71 representatives of the best families in Russia and 10 women who followed them for not completely clear as it may seem now, purpose.

Today Petrovsk-Zabaikalsky similar to many other towns. On those times commemorative plaque on one of the houses. And, of course, the monument Trubetskoy family standing at the end of the line and the broad street Lady.

That track "Cupid": a newly crazy landscapes, through the fog and smooth asphalt under the wheels. It seemed to Khabarovsk domchalis can in one sitting. Moreover, the experience of past expeditions we remember that the road here is excellent. Only four months ago, on it we went to Sakhalin, and this way without any problems overcome even with Jaguar clearance 8 cm, shod in low-profile tires Michelin Pilot. Now everything is different! Outback and Forester worked without sparing arm: the entire route into a series of pits and "kickers." Yes, the road is not as trouble-free as it might seem at first.

Is a federal and, by the way, is noisy raspiarenny, trail. It should theoretically be charging after a certain guest kilometers normal asphalt, free of snow, bumpers and markings, but alas ...Night was falling, and we suddenly noticed on the wrong side of the car Skoda Fabia with a broken headstock. Is a man without petrol, without wheels and without communication. Before meeting with us he had to wait for help for several hours. Moreover, to the nearest gas station was only three kilometers. Of course we went, they brought ...

At a roadside hotel is 30 km from the town of Skovorodino we spent the night with thoughts of Yakutia, which awaits us tomorrow.

Leaving aside Skovrodino Yakutsk perfect asphalt, you get a completely isolated and European ... turning on the "butterfly", will be on the dirt road, which will have to "nag" about 2000 km to Yakutsk. And this is called the federal highway "Lena"! Paradoxes of concepts, game formulations. They say the track will soon, finally, normal cover, but until we have what we have.Five years ago we overcame this way for Mazda BT-50 , three years ago at the Mercedes ML, two years ago on the Mazda3, and now the Subaru Forester and Outback - under the wheels of all the exact same primer. Good that a lot of snow piled and potholes slightly smoothed out.

Gold mine in Solovevsk - most major segments of the path. Here over 143 years produced 217 tonnes of gold from 648 million cubic meters. meters of rock. To understand what this means, you can only see mine own eyes. Miles of rivers, ravaged people in search of gold, crumbling two-story barracks, a proud monument and cheap Chinese restaurant.

Again, the trouble with the ingredients. Sometimes find not only the 95th, but the 92-octane gasoline. Fill them for future use at every gas station counter, because the North - no joke!Better to be safe. Having had time to get used to a "prehistoric" gas stations, we are even surprised to meet more modern gas station (with a price tag of £ 35. Per liter for 95-octane) at the entrance to Neryungri.

The next day on the agenda - the thermal springs and a short section of road: only 250 km to the Aldan. In it, we arrived quite late - at ten o'clock, but the blame is not only "killed" gravel roads of the federal highway, but also landscapes suburb Neryungri. It was impossible not to shoot! Here we are in a fairy tale! So most of the time allocated to the path to Aldana, we paid surveys.

The farther you leaving from Moscow, the more forget the usual realities metropolis fitness club, an aqua park. Here we tested the local species of entertainment and wellness.Temperature is -35 ° C, open water, but it is safe to dive. Hair turn white with frost, while the body is immersed in water at a temperature of +30 ° C! Resist the temptation to go for a swim in a place all the participants of our journey was difficult. Uuuh, last dive into the hot water and run across the yard in a warm dressing room. Did not notice that it was getting dark. Whether from extreme temperatures, whether the spectacle of Yakutian sunsets over the skin for a long time ran shivers.

The road got worse, twilight deepened quickly. We stopped for the night in Aldan.

Went out of town toward the sunrise. Dawn in Yakutia - a show, striking colors: shades of blue, white and orange. When the sun is a little "ignites" top of fluffy snow covered pines and firs, is so magical orange trees and not the top like the corals, not on plush paws.

To Yakutsk - 100 km, frostbitten nose, hands, too, and let out a camera out of the hands would not be desirable. On crossing the Lena - hummocks. When driving around with UAZ of oncoming vehicles friendly smile and take off our cell phones. Do not we have them, and they are us!

At the entrance to the town we were met Lena - amazingly modest Yakut girl, who, as it turns out, is a member of the first female automotive world tour (more on that later). Not long planned how we will go: through the city or a detour. Course through the city! The crossroads - new buildings, decorated with colored panels, which, on the idea of ​​the architect seems to act as antidepressants for people used to the monotonous whiteness around. Industrial zone, cinema - after desert trails Yakutsk seems metropolis! And here is the main attraction - Chochur Muran, ethnographic center. A palace, surrounded by ice sculptures. In the courtyard fervently barking sled dogs. I can not believe that we will have the opportunity to stay right here to spend the night. Be sure to visit this place if you find yourself there. It is even worth it, that would come on purpose! Having visited the shamanistic ceremony, eat delicious stroganina, you sit and realize what you damn well find yourself out of luck here!